Year in California

Year in the Rockies

2010-12-17T16:14:00.001-08:00

I've pushed the 2010 travel season to the start of winter. Same as last year. :-)

Thanksgiving 2009 was spent with the Salvation Army in Sacramento. By Christmas I was with family in Southern California.

The seasons in California are much less dramatic. In the fall of 2009 I crossed the Sierra Nevada Mountains. Exiting Lake Tahoe a few hours before the first big winter storm. Over the next month I drove from Sacramento to Long Beach unconcerned about the weather.

Perhaps that previous year in California spoiled me. Autumn 2010 in the Rocky Mountains was much more pronounced. I'd planned to be through Colorado in October 2010 (peak of aspen foliage). However a two week detour through the Black Hills of South Dakota caused significant delay.

I divided most of winter 2009-2010 between Los Angeles and San Diego. In March 2010 I made my way to the low desert. The wildflowers bloomed fairly late in April (by which time it's too HOT to be in Palm Springs or really anywhere in the Colorado Desert).

It was a good year for blooms in Anza-Borrego Desert State Park. In the high desert, the Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve was an ocean of fire. I continued to Las Vegas, NV.

May turned to June. After a brief detour to Baja, Mexico (payed for with a bad sunburn), I explored the Great Basin Desert. I visited every county in Nevada. Lots of mining history and of course the California Trail. By this time it was summer (too HOT to be in any desert, anywhere).

Nevertheless (and without air conditioning) I pressed onto Utah. I oriented myself to the red rock area around St. George. In July, I took three weeks to drive and hike the Grand Circle.

I hiked the national and state parks of southern Utah until my knees ached. I looped around (but not actually through) the four corners. Mesa Verde in Colorado and Chaco Canyon in New Mexico were two of only a few stops in each of those states (again too hot).

Then through Monument Valley, AZ and the north rim of the Grand Canyon (whose elevation offered some relief). On a predawn trip from Page I illegally visited The Wave. Finally looping back to St. George through Zion National Park (which I found hot and crowded).

In August, I continued north visiting almost every county in Utah (the final two were done later). I spent a few weeks around the Great Salt Lake. I traveled north to Promontory Point where the Golden Spike National Historic Site recollects the connecting of the first Transcontinental Railroad.

By late summer I was in Idaho. No time to visit every county. I even cut out some of the Rocky Mts. The Couer d'Alene area and Pacific Northwest may be a future trip...

I puttered around the west Tetons and Snake River Plain. I made it as far west as Twin Falls. At Craters of the Moon National Monument I learned about the volcanic hotspot that moved through the area to it's present location under Yellowstone.

I continued north into the Sawtooth Mountains. I spent a few days in Sun Valley. Briefly returning to Idaho Falls before heading to Montana.

I must have gotten pulled over a dozen times in the second half of August. To be fair, August through September is pot harvesting season. Highway patrol probably pulls over a lot of folks. Though one state patrolman was candid enough to admit he simply saw a young man driving a large vehicle with out of state plates.

There are no very large cities in Montana. I passed through Butte, Missoula, and Kalispell. Missoula probably being the biggest. Montana (like Idaho) is heavy in Lewis & Clark lore.

But Glacier National Park steals the show in Montana. It's the highlight of the entire Rocky Mountains. And certainly was of my trip. I drove the Going-to-the-Sun Road twice over, stopping for day hikes and camping along the way.

After spending Labor Day in the park I was forced to head south. The Rockies actually make up very little of Montana. The rest being high plains aka big sky country. Punctuated by rivers such as the Missouri and Yellowstone whose headwaters meet there.

Autumn was knocking. Many local and county museums I passed were closed for the season. In Great Falls the US Forest Service runs the Lewis & Clark National Historic Trail Interpretive Center. Certainly the best place to learn about the subject in both breadth and depth.

On a day trip from Billings, I visited the Little Bighorn Battlefield. I continued south to Yellowstone National Park on the Beartooth Highway. At just under 11,000 feet this was the highest road I'd been on (until Colorado).

I crossed the treeline, through alpine tundra, back down, and into the park. The road through Yellowstone is a figure eight. I made the north loop and headed back into Montana.

In the early 2000s earthquakes shifted the geothermal activity away from the pools at Mammoth Hot Springs. Making the more intriguing attraction the bugling and jousting of bull elks who have run of the the town that time of the year. Overall though the north loop left me rather disappointed with Yellowstone.

I drove north to Bozeman then Helena. I took a tour of the Capitol (which I made a point of doing in every state). I headed south again stopping in Big Sky. Then briefly through Idaho and into West Yellowstone.

After Labor Day the crowds at Yellowstone NP empty somewhat. Making it a good time to visit. My opinion of the park was dramatically improved after completing the southern loop.

I continued to Cody. The highlight of my time there was the Buffalo Bill Historic Center which is five museums in one. I drove back through Yellowstone and exited from the south. Thus completing all major roads in the park (which I try to do in every national park I visit).

Next I saw Grand Tetons National Park and Jackson Hole. I continued sightseeing through south Wyoming to Rock Springs. At the end of September I briefly entered the northeast corner of Utah and through Dinosaur National Monument to Steamboat Springs, CO. I reentered Wyoming at Laramie.

I reached Cheyenne, WY by October. The weather was nice so I detoured through Nebraska to the Black Hills of South Dakota. In Nebraska, Scottsbluff National Monument linked the plains topography to the history of the Emigrant Trails.

Outside Chadron is the aptly named Museum of the Fur Trade. The breadth and depth of this museum was a pleasant surprise. I spent two days there learning about a seldom taught period of westward exploration and commerce.

I looped through the Black Hills in beautiful weather stopping at several points of interest including Mount Rushmore. Heading south through Wyoming I made a stop in Casper. Finally reaching Cheyenne again.

I entered Colorado and headed to Fort Collins. By mid to late October I drove Trail Ridge Road through Rocky Mountain National Park. At an elevation of almost 12,200 feet this was the highest road I took through the Rockies. I encountered flurries and the threat of snow dogged me the rest of my time in the Colorado Rockies and San Juan Mts. (Though I almost completely managed to avoid storms.)

I made a rough loop around Colorado over the next month. By November I was on the Front Range. I visited Denver and other front range cities. At over 14,100 feet the drive up Pike's Peak was the highest the camper van has been (though not a through road).

I struck a buck on my way to Sand Creek Massacre National Historic site in the eastern plains of the state (of all places).

The encounter with the deer threatened to end my travels prematurely. Luckily I was able to find cheap scrap parts for the damaged passenger headlight area. As for the cosmetic damage I think it adds character to the Mystery Machine.

I continued south into northern New Mexico. Despite some cold nights I continued sightseeing. Destinations included Capulin Volcano and Fort Union National Monuments.

I spent Thanksgiving 2010 around the northern Rio Grande River. I explored Santa Fe and Taos. In Albuquerque I linked up with my 2008 cross country route along Interstate 40.

I left New York on Columbus Day of 2008 and took a month to drive to California. Once reaching Albuquerque in early to mid November of that year I headed south to Socorro. Visiting SETI at the Very Large Array I continued to Phoenix, Palm Springs, and the L.A. Basin.

Fortunately in December 2010, there was a break in the weather. Allowing me to drive I-40 from Albuquerque to Flagstaff, AZ. I stopped at the several national monuments along the way. I spent a day at Petrified Forest National Park enjoying the beauty of the Painted Desert.

I passed through and around several Native American reservations, at which I would have liked to stop. Most of all the Acoma and Hopi. Another trip...

I hung around Flagstaff and made a trip up to the south rim of the Grand Canyon. The Mystery Machine's transmission had begun shifting roughly in Albuquerque. Off-roading to some Sinagua ruins in Sedona worsened the leaks.

By the time I reached Phoenix there was no fluid. Aamco rebuilt the transmission, though as of now (a day later) it is still leaking slightly. I only wish that were the Mystery Machine's only problem.

The Rocky Mountains were rough on the Dodge Ram Van. Mountain driving, off-roading, and extremely cold weather have all taken their toll. I have an appointment tomorrow at Pep Boys to have the gearbox replaced. Hopefully the subsequent alignment will correct dangerous wearing of the inside left front tire.

At just under 90,000 miles and only 18 years old there should be plenty of miles left on the Mystery Machine. It's still a kid as far as classic campers go. And now maybe an icon of sorts...

I had plans to loop through southern Arizona and New Mexico before calling it quits and heading back to Southern California for Christmas. However these repairs are taking the better part of a week.

On the upside, I'm catching up on my YouTube vlog: 13,000 videos posted (and counting). Though as of this writing current only up to the month of November 2010...

Come mid winter I'm planning to drive Interstate 10 from Los Angeles to Jacksonville, FL. In the meantime, I suppose the rest of the Southwest isn't going anywhere.

The Google Voice Nightmare

2010-12-09T18:57:00.000-08:00

Have you made the mistake of linking an iPhone to Google Voice?

Has Google voice hijacked your messages?

Follow these steps:

"Deleting your phone from Google Voice will not actually prevent your voicemail calls from going to Google voicemail. In order to switch back to your carrier's voicemail and deactivate your Google voicemail on your phone, click the Settings link at the top right of the Google Voice page. Then, select the Phones tab and click on Edit. Select Deactivate voicemail and follow the prompts."

Shitty iTunes Apps

2010-09-25T10:40:00.000-07:00

Edit: iTunes apologized and refunded my purchase.

The Oh! Ranger app from the iTunes store is a complete waste of $3.

It is GARBAGE.

iTunes intentionally makes it impossible to demand refunds or complain about fraudulent applications in their store.

I love my iPhone 3Gs. When the iPhone 4 is finally in-stock, I will probably buy one.

Then I will JAILBREAK it!

Apple...Steve Jobs...I love you.

iTunes...Go fuck your yourself!

Duplicate (even triplicate) songs in my playlists...No cloud for music (Google music anyone?)

Below is my letter to iTunes.

I'll be sure to post their standard "sorry for the inconvenience" "now please fuck off" response.

Dear iTunes,

The Oh! Ranger application is a graphically redesigned version of the Accuterra appliction (which I previously paid for, downloaded, and deleted due to poor functionality).

Accuterra has lost all their business. Now they are hiding behind the Oh! Ranger brand? This is a scam designed to trick iTunes customers into paying twice for the same old app they hated!

For shelling out $3 do I get anything new? Sure do, when clicking on the Oh! Ranger button I am redirected to their free website in Safari.

Yes that's correct, the app I PAID for actually closes and opens a free website in Safari.

This app is meant to be used in National Parks where there is no wifi or cell coverage. Therefore the free website is useless for navigating or planning my visit through the park. I demand a full refund.

Furthermore, you need to remove this scam app from your store. I am posting this to my blog. I hope iTunes mans up and does right by it's customers. All the "real" reviews for this app are 1 star = hated it.

Salt Lake City

2010-08-21T07:45:00.000-07:00

I reached Salt Lake City towards the end of July.

I rounded out the month with a total of 110 destinations:

107. The Living Planet Aquarium (Sandy, UT)

108. Temple Square (SLC)

109. Tracy Aviary (SLC)

110. Chase Home & Museum of Utah Folk Art (SLC)

I spent the first few weeks of August 2010 exploring Utah's capitol and its suburbs.

1. Utah Museum of Fine Arts - University of Utah - Salt Lake City - Utah
2. This is the Place Heritage Park - Salt Lake City - Utah
3. Utah Museum of Natural History - University of Utah - Salt Lake City - Utah
4. Interstate 80 - Toole County - Utah
5. Wheeler Historic Farm - Midvale - Utah

6. Red Butte Garden & Arboretum - Univeristy of Utah - Salt Lake City - Utah
7. Fort Douglas Museum - University of Utah - Salt Lake City - Utah
8. Hogle Zoo - Salt Lake City - Utah
9. Kennecott Bingham Canyon Mine - Salt Lake County - Utah
10. Bonneville Speedway - Bonneville Salt Flats - Great Salt Lake Desert - Utah

11. Saltair - Salt Lake State Park - Hwy 80 - Utah
12. Clark Planetarium - Salt Lake City - Utah
13. Gateway Center - Salt Lake City - Utah
14. Ensign Peak - Salt Lake City - Utah
15. Draper LDS Temple - Draper - Utah

16. Hellenic Cultural Museum - Salt Lake City - Utah
17. Utah State Capitol - Salt Lake City - Utah
18. Fort Douglas Museum - University of Utah - Salt Lake City - Utah
19. Utah Museum of Fine Arts - University of Utah - Salt Lake City - Utah
20. Thanksgiving Point - North American Museum of Ancient Life - Lehi - Utah

21. Thanksgiving Point - Gardens - Lehi - Utah
22. John Hutchings Museum of Natural History - Lehi - Utah
23. Utah Governor's Mansion - Salt Lake City - Utah
24. Cathedral of the Madeleine - Salt Lake City - Utah
25. Outdoor World - Salt Lake City Convention Center - Utah

26. Mount Nebo Scenic Byway - Nephi to Payson - Utah
27. Squaw Peak - Provo - Utah
28. REI - Sandy - Utah

After stopping at REI to supply for bear country I headed north to Ogden, UT.

YouTube Ten Thousand

2010-08-09T08:35:00.000-07:00

Today I uploaded my 10,000th YouTube video:

It's displaying as 9,688th. Not sure why...

Central Utah

2010-07-31T11:24:00.000-07:00

I took a few days to drive from St. George to the Utah Valley.

Day 1
Cedar City, UT. Iron Mission State Park Museum. Southern Utah University: Braithewaite Fine Arts Gallery. Utah Shakespeare Festival. Parowan. Brian Head Peak. Cedar Breaks National Monument. Panguitch. Junction, UT. Big Rock Candy Mtn. Sevier. Fremont Indian State Park & Museum. Old Cove Fort. Beaver, UT. Crossed into Nevada. Baker, NV. Great Basin National Park.

Day 2
Great Basin National Park. Wheeler Campground. Bristlecone Pine Trail. Glacier Trail. Alpine Lake Trail. Wheeler Peak Trail. Summit 13,063 ft. Total 13.5 miles. Swam in Stella Lake. Campfire Ranger Program: Mountain Lions.

I drove roundabout from the Utah-Nevada border to the Utah Valley.

Day 3
Sunday, all day, drive. 450 miles through seven counties. Delta, UT. Fillmore. Nephi. Mt. Pleasant. Scofield. Duchesne. Heber City. Provo. Orem, UT. Subway, Wendy's, two gas station ice-cream bars, two protein shakes, pecans, almonds, sunflower seeds: 3,000 calories. 95 MPH. = Almost a trucker...

I made a few loops through rural counties.

Day 4
Orem, UT to Heber City. Scenic Byway Hwy 150 North. Crossed into Wyoming. Evanston, WY to Woodruff, UT. Hwy 39 to Huntsville. Morgan to Coalville, UT. Hwy 80. Salt Lake City to Orem. Nine counties. Five new in Utah. One in Wyoming.

After the scenic driving, I began sightseeing around the Utah Valley.

Day 5
Brigham Young University and its four museums. Saw a few Hudson River School paintings, what a treat!

Day 6
American Fork Canyon-Alpine Loop Scenic Backway. Timpanogos Cave National Monument. Cave tour: 3.5 miles. Mt. Timpanogos Wilderness. Scout Falls: 2 miles. Uinta National Forest. Cascade Springs Loop: 0.6 miles. Hwy 189. Bridal Veil Falls (Provo, UT) 0.5 miles.

Day 7
Park City, UT. Kimball Art Center. Park City Museum. Deer Valley Resort. Downhill mountain biking.

The Grand Circle

2010-07-30T23:49:00.000-07:00

   Utah...
   Colorado...
New Mexico...
   Arizona...
   Utah...
  2,600 miles.

Grand Circle, Day 1
Overnight backpack hike to Kolob Arch, Zion National Park. 15 miles r/t.

Grand Circle, Day 2
Cedar Breaks National Monument. Spectra Point, Rampart Overlook, Alpine Pond. 5 miles.

Grand Circle, Day 3
Bryce Canyon National Park. Queens Garden & Navajo Loop Trail: 2 miles. Bristlecone Loop Trail: 1 mile. Red Canyon. Pink Ledges Trail: 1 mile. Tunnel Trail: 1 mile.

Grand Circle, Day 4
Kodachrome Basin State Park. Nature Trail: 0.5 miles, Angels Palace Trail: 1 mile, Shakespeare Arch: 1 mile. Escalante State Park. Petrified Wood Trail: 1.75 miles. Took washboard Cottonwood Rd. a mile to water hazard in Escalante-Grand Staircase National Monument. Now clunking from right front end. Suspension?

Grand Circle, Day 5
Anasazi Village State Park. Boulder, UT. Hwy 12 to Torrey, UT. Hwy 24 to Capitol Reef National Park. Chimney Rock Trail: 3 miles, Hickman Bridge Trail: 2 miles. Swam in Fremont River under waterfall.

Grand Circle, Day 6
Hwy 12 to Hwy 24. Goblin Valley State Park. 1 mile. Hwy 70 Green River, UT. Green River State Park. John Wesley Powell River History Museum. Arches National Park. Campground Full. Moab, UT...knees hurt.

Grand Circle, Day 7
Moab, UT. And on day seven, Tim rested...Shower, shave, laundry, vacuumed Mystery Machine, and ordered front stabilizer kit. Parts arrive tomorrow. Mechanic will install Friday. Giving my knees a break; spending today inside--availing myself of McDonald's air conditioning and free WiFi.

Grand Circle, Day 8
Arches National Park. Delicate Arch Trail: 3 miles. Devil's Garden Trails: 4 miles. McDonald's Moab, UT.

Grand Circle, Day 9
Scenic Byway 128. Arches National Park. Windows Trails: 1.6 miles.

Grand Circle, Day 10
Mystery Machine stabilizers repaired. (New front stabilizers: $60.) Moab Museum. Dead Horse Point State Park. Canyonlands National Park (Island in the Sky). Mesa Arch: 0.5 miles. Upheaval Dome: 1 mile. Arch: 0.5 miles. Upheaval Dome: 1 mile.

Grand Circle, Day 11
La Sal Mountain Loop Road Scenic Byway. Hwy 191 South. Wilson Arch. Needles Overlook: 0.5 miles. Hwy 211 to Newspaper Rock Recreation Area. Canyonlands National Park (The Needles). Roadside Ruin: 0.5 miles. Monticello to Blanding, UT. Edge of Cedars State Park & Museum. Hwy 95 to Natural Bridges National Monument. Owachomo Bridge: 0.5 miles. Campground.

Grand Circle, Day 12
Hovenweep National Monument. Little Ruin Canyon Trail: 2 miles. Crossed into Colorado. Canyons of the Ancients National Monument. Cortez, CO. Mesa Verde National Park. Cliff Palace & Balcony House tours: 1.5 miles. Took cattle guard too fast. Bump caused fuel gauge to go haywire...

Grand Circle, Day 13
Mesa Verde National Park. 2 miles. Yucca Hat National Monument. Crossed into New Mexico. Chaco Culture National Historic Park. (Chaco Canyon) 1 mile.

Grand Circle, Day 14
Chaco Culture National Historic Park. 1 mile. Aztec Ruins National Monument. 0.5 miles. New Mexico to Arizona. Fuel gauge broken. Navajo Indian Reservation. Canyon de Chelly National Park. 3 miles. Free camping.

Grand Circle, Day 15
Kayenta, AZ. Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park. Navajo National Monument. 1.8 miles. Free camping. (2,000 driving miles logged)

Grand Circle, Day 16
Page, AZ. Horseshoe Bend: 1.5 miles. Powell Museum. Glen Canyon Dam tour. Glen Canyon National Recreation Area. Lake Powell to Rainbow Bridge National Monument. 1.5 miles.

Grand Circle, Day 17
Page, AZ. Lake Powell. Navajo & Antelope Canyons. Three failed attempts to change oil on Mystery Machine. (Stripped drain pan.) Glen Canyon Dam overlook. Hanging Garden Trail: 1.5 miles.

Grand Circle, Day 18
Upper Antelope Canyon tour, Navajo Tribal Park. 1 mile. Hanging Garden Trail: 1 mile. Morning swim in Lake Powell @ "The Chains". Humpback Whale delights pleasure craft. Page Public Library.

Grand Circle, Day 19
Hwy 89 West.Vermilion Cliffs National Monument. "The Wave" @ Coyote Buttes. 6 miles. Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. Toadstools Trail. 1.6 miles. Big Water, UT. Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument Visitor Center. Breakfast. Lee's Ferry. Hwy 89A to Jacob Lake. Grand Canyon North Rim. Bright Angel Point. 1 mile.

Grand Circle, Day 20
Grand Canyon National Park, North Rim. Transept & Nature Trail. 1 mile. Cape Final Trail. 4 miles. Widforss Trail. 10 miles.

Grand Circle, Day 21
Grand Canyon National Park, North Rim. Hwy 67, Jacob Lake. Hwy 89A. Hwy 89. Crossed into Utah. Moqui Cave. Maynard Dixon Home. Zion National Park. St. George, UT.

St. George, Utah

2010-07-30T11:49:00.000-07:00

From Las Vegas I took I-15 north through the border town of Mesquite, NV.

I made a brief stop at the Virgin Valley Heritage Museum.

Continuing, I followed the scenic Virgin River into Utah.

I explored the city of St. George.

First stop was the Rosenbruch Wildlife Museum.

I loaded up on tourist brochures at their Welcome Center.

I met up with a friend and local hiking guru, Kendell: http://www.hikingsouthutah.com/

We did an evening hike at "The Slots" in Red Cliffs Desert Reserve.

The next day I did Zion National Park; on the way stopping at the Hurricane Valley Heritage Park.

It was a very hot June in St. George. I learned to do my hiking early.

The Saddle Trail starts outside Snow Canyon State Park before cutting across the sandstone borders.

St. George has several small museums:

Daughters of Utah Pioneers Museum

Brigham Young Winter Home

Jacob Hamlin Home (Santa Clara, UT)

St. George Tabernacle

St. George Dinosaur Discovery Site at Johnson Farm

An evening bike ride along the Riverside Trail is a nice way to beat the heat.

Camelback Trail near the town of Gunlock is off the beaten path.

The St. George Art Museum is small but worthwhile.

The Washington City Museum and Monument Plaza is less worthwhile.

North of St. George in Leeds is the Silver Reef Gallery & Museum.

The St. George Temple has a large visitor center that welcomes tourists.

I took a day trip from St. George to Pipe Springs National Monument.

Pipe Springs National Monument is just across the border in Arizona.

It's jointly managed by the National Park Service and Kaibab-Paiute Indian Reservation.

I continued to Fredonia, AZ and Kanab, UT.

Kanab is known as "Little Hollywood" for the many westerns shot in the area.

Frontier Movie Town has actual sets from many of the movies.

The lobby of Parry Lodge is papered with photographs of celebrities and memorabilia.

I drove around the grounds of Best Friends Animal Sanctuary outside Kanab.

I spent the remainder of the day at Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park before returning to St. George.

The sunset from atop the tallest sand dune at Coral Pink looks over the Vermilion Cliffs.

This introduced the beauty awaiting me in The Grand Staircase.

Zion Canyon is crowded in summer. However the Lava Point & Kolob Reservoir sections of Zion National Park are nearly deserted.

From Kolob Reservoir the dirt road, Right Hand Canyon Road, leads to HWY 14.

From the 14 it's a short drive up to Cedar Breaks National Monument.

Back in St. George the Historic St. George Live Tour meets in front of the Art Museum.

Dixie State College has a small gallery, the Dolores Dore Eccles Fine Art Center.

Nearby is the small museum: Washington City Museum & Monument Plaza.

As I said, it was a HOT June in St. George. The Dixie National Forest offers an afternoon reprieve.

It's a short drive up the mountains to Mt. Meadow Historic Site.

The community of Pine Valley is also worth checking out.

I visited the Pine Valley Chapel and Pine Valley Heritage Center.

I saved the best for last.

Before leaving on the "Grand Circle" I spent an afternoon in Snow Canyon State Park.

Northern Nevada

2010-06-28T23:50:00.000-07:00

Before Utah, I explored northern Nevada.

I made a loop, starting in Las Vegas (108 F).

I took the Great Basin Highway to Cathedral Gorge State park.

Next I visited the town of Pioche. This former mining town has a wild past. It's two main attractions are the Lincoln County Museum & Million Dollar Courthouse.

I continued north to Great Basin National Park. The visitor center has exhibits on the Great Basin Desert, which covers most of Nevada.

The scenic drive to Wheeler Peak offers vistas over basin and range. Most of the trails were snowed in. I was told to try back in July.

I spent the night in the town of Baker. The following morning I toured Lehman Caves.

Heading west toward Ely are two state parks.

The first was Ward Charcoal Ovens State Historic Park. The park preserves 19th century beehive ovens. The ovens were used to mass produce charcoal--essential in the refining of metal ores from nearby mines.

The second was Cave Lake State Park. The park is a haven for recreational activities like swimming and fishing.

I visited two museums in Ely. The Nevada Northern Railway Museum has a working train yard and details the history of rail in northern Nevada.

The White Pine Public Museum houses various exhibits related to local and county history.

On the drive from Ely to Wells I passed the picturesque Ruby Mountains.

Wells is little more than a stopover along Interstate 80.

I continued west on I-80 to Elko. The weather there was surprisingly cold. In stark contrast to the heat of Las Vegas.

The Northeastern Nevada Museum has a comprehensive collection of exhibits.

The Western Folklife Center details the history of ranching in the United States, and particularly Florida.

Outside Ely is Lamoille Canyon. This picturesque valley in the Ruby Mts. has great hiking. However, a mudslide closed the road.

I continued on I-80 to Winnemucca. This is the heart of Basque country. Sheepherders and ranchers who, in the late 1800s, emigrated from the Pyrenees Mountains between Spain & France.

I'd preceded the Basque Festival by a few weeks. And the Winnemucca Visitor Center/Chamber of Commerce was closed. I spent a few hours cleaning the Mystery Machine (it hit 70,000 miles) then left.

By nightfall I was in Lovelock. There was no Starbucks. But I was able to plug in my laptop and use the free WiFi at McDonald's.

The next morning I visited the Round Courthouse and Lovelock Plaza. The plaza contains a tangle of locks left by tourists symbolically "locking" their "love".

Also of interest is the Pershing County Museum @ the Marzden House.

West of Lovelock, on a dirt road off Rt. 80, I took a walk around the Tufa Park. Well worth the stop.

I continued west on I-80 to Fernley. Going south through Silver Springs I reached Fort Churchill State Historic Park.

I doubled back to Hwy 50 "The Loneliest Road in America". I passed through Fallon and Gabbs.

I made a stop at Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park. Home to both the ghost town of Berlin and a fossil bed of prehistoric sea creatures.

I continued to Tonopah before resting for the night. The next morning was wasted waiting for two Tonopah museums that never opened.

I was so pissed-off I left Nevada. At Scotty's Junction I turned west into Death Valley National Park.

I visited the Ubehebe Crater and took a tour at Scotty's Castle.

On the way back out of California, I drove on the Bonnie Claire Flat. This playa is one of the few accessible places in Death Valley to view racetrack rocks.

I passed through Beatty, stopping at Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge.

Within the NWR is Devil's Hole. This pupfish sanctuary is actually an extension of Death Valley National Park.

I took a hike at Point of Rocks, a boardwalk trail in Ash Meadows.

Finally, I passed through the city of Pahrump.

A nighttime drive through the Spring Mountains brought me back to Las Vegas.

In total I drove about 1,525 miles on this loop through every county in Nevada.

Mormon Utah

2010-06-28T23:30:00.000-07:00

I week ago I left Nevada for Utah.

For the past week, I've been exploring St. George and the surrounding area.

Utah state history is very much the history of the Mormon Church.

Proselytizing comes with the territory. It's customary for a Mormon tour guide to ask where you are from and to what religion you subscribe.

As an atheist, I'm then asked if I would like to hear more about the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints.

I offer a polite "No thank you." I'm asked a second time.

A more firm, "No, thank you." To which I'm asked, "Please keep our church in mind."

This is well and good; until visiting Temples and Tabernacles.

I was being given a tour of the St. George Tabernacle by Elder "Smith".

On the Tabernacle tour Elder Smith insisted there was no 'earthly reason' for limestone to occur in southern Utah. (The limestone was mixed with gypsum to make plaster for decorations.)

I immediately offered evidence that a prehistoric inland sea covered the entire area for millions of years. To which Elder Smith simply replied "No". The other Mormons on the tour took a quick step backward. I elaborated that calcium from the bones and shells of sea creatures is compacted into limestone, which is then uplifted due to geological faulting. "NO." the Elder replied.

Whatever...

I left the Tabernacle and headed to the St.George Dinosaur Discovery Site at Johnson Farm.

One of the first exhibits is a geologic timeline. It shows the ancient sea that covered southern Utah.

To which I say, "YES."

The next day I visited the St. George Temple. Who do I see? None other than Elder Smith. (Actually, not much of a coincidence; the Mormon tour guides from the Jacob Hamblin Home & Brigham Young Winter Home were also there.)

I told him what I saw at Johnson Farm. To which he said, "Maybe..."

A Bit of Background

2010-05-30T10:36:00.000-07:00

I spent 2009 exploring California. I've been living a vagabond lifestyle in a camper van, purchased on eBay. (Christened the Mystery Machine after my favorite cartoon Scooby Doo.)

I left New York during the October 2008 financial meltdown. Perfect timing; gas prices dropped to a low of $1.50 as I passed through Columbus, Ohio. On Halloween I saw Barack Obama speak in Missouri. I hit New Mexico the night he was elected.

I took about a month to do the drive. I stayed in New York a bit longer than I should have. I wanted to see the Catskills change color one last time.

The previous summer was spent sightseeing around the Hudson Valley and NYC with my father. I dragged him to at least two museums, parks, and/or historic homes a day. For only being a 240 years old the United States has a plethora of culture. Enough for a lifetime of twice-a-day sightseeing.

I started my voyage on Columbus Day. I'd planned to start with Pennslyvania Dutch country. Then work my way across the country sightseeing. Hiking upstate New York's fall foliage pushed back my schedule. The first third of my journey was cold; I couldn't sleep at night.

My first real stop was St. Louis. From Missouri I took a southern route through Oklahoma. I wanted to avoid cold weather, snow, and most importantly the Rocky Mountains. In retrospect, I'm sure the Mystery Machine could have made the climb. But also sure I wouldn't have endured the cold weather.

I meandered through the southwest: Albuquerque, Los Alamos, Sante Fe, Socorro, Phoenix. I made my penultimate stop in Palm Springs, hitting the Pacific Coast just in time for my sister's wedding.

I spent the winter exploring the Los Angeles basin. The Rose Parade in Pasadena trumps Macy's Day in New York. Likewise the Getty Villa is better than a trip to the Bay of Naples.

As the weather got nicer I moved towards Joshua Tree and the Colorado Desert. Then, north to the Mojave.

The National Park Rangers at Manzanar National Historic Site blew my mind; there was snow in California?! I'd planned to take the back entrance to Yosemite. But the Tioga Road didn't open for another two months!

Rt. 80 was the closest artery over the Sierras. My consolation prize was Lake Tahoe. I crossed the Donner Pass in a snowstorm and drove back to Southern California through America's breadbasket: the Central Valley.

I did some more sightseeing around SoCal. I stated at the Bellagio in Vegas for a weekend. Death Valley was a treat.

I made lots of radius trips from the High Desert: Mojave National Preserve, Sequoia National Park, Yosemite (this time via Tioga road), Santa Barbara, San Diego, etc. Mostly I was escaping the heat. (The Mystery Machine's air conditioning is busted.)

By summer I was in the southern Sierras. I cracked my tailbone when I slipped at a Peppermint Falls. Even worse my iPhone floated away. This was a blessing in disguise.

A new version of the iPhone had come out. I straggled down the mountains to Visalia. I got the 3Gs and immediately began shooting video in Sequoia National Park. Facebook photos are great. But a Youtube video is the better way to record those massive trees.

I continued my journey across the Central Valley. Then up the coast where the summer temps were much more mild.

Northern California can be like a separate state. I hit Big Sur, Monterey, and San Francisco. Wine country, the Lost Coast, Ferndale, Eureka--all delights.

By fall, I crossed into Oregon. I saw Crater Lake hours before snow closed the roads for the season. Here it occurred to me; I might be able to see all of California's 58 counties. So I started my blog: YearinCalifornia.blogspot.com

Back in California, I took in both the Trinity Alps and I-5 corridor. I hit Tahoe for an extended stay. Being half in Nevada it was only natural I continue on to Reno.

The Mystery Machine got stuck in the sand on the Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation--only a temporary slowdown. I hit Virginia City on Veteran's Day 2009. Then Carson City and back to California.

Winter starts early in the Sierras. I left Tahoe on a November morning; hours before snow closed the Kit Carson Pass.

I explored the motherload towns and parks of the Central Sierra Nevada Mts. I had Thanksgiving with the Salvation Army in Sacramento. By mid December I was in Bakersfield. I crossed the Carrizo Plain National Monument in a storm and swung into Santa Barbara.

I took the coast to Camarillo. Then headed inland to the San Fernando Valley. I spent the holidays with family in Long Beach.

By February 2010 I was visiting friends in San Diego. The March wildflowers in the Anza-Borrego Desert were the best in years. I got through Palm Springs and the Coachella Valley before the serious summer heat.

Mid April was the peak for the Antelope Valley Poppy Reserve. Death Valley also had a good flower showing. I hit the Mojave Preserve again.

I made repeat visits to many places in Southern Cal. I shot video where I'd only had pictures before. Makes me think of The Aviator; when Howard Hughes wants to immediately re-shoot Hells Angels for sound, LOL.

Finally I ended up in Las Vegas. From Vegas I was planning to see the rest of Nevada. Next the Grand Canyon. Followed by Utah, Yellowstone, Idaho, etc. Then the Pacific Northwest: Oregon, Washington, and all the way to Vancouver. All this end of summer 2010.

In October, I want to fly to Shanghai, China for the last month of the 2010 World Exposition. But here I am on the beach in Baja California Sur, Mexico...

Baja California (Mexico)

2010-05-30T10:30:00.001-07:00

I was traveling in Las Vegas, NV. A friend in San Diego, CA invited me to Mexico. Dave was driving down the Baja peninsula to his house in La Paz. He spends a few weeks in Baja California Sur every May.

Renewing immigration paperwork in Mexico is a waiting game. Dave had never taken the time to drive around and sightsee. We could hit La Paz, file his paperwork, then relax for a week around the southern peninsula resorts.

I'd been eyeing Baja for awhile. May is the wrong time of year to drive down. But how could I turn it down? This would be the capstone of my trek...

(Click here for: A bit of background on Year in California.)

In later years Dave has preferred the two hour flight out of Tijuana. It's a strenuous thousand mile drive from San Diego to La Paz. I was worried about safety on the road. Dave assured me the most worrisome area is from the border to Ensenada. This can be gotten through in a few hours. South of Ensenada things quiet down considerably.

For years Dave had been driving down, usually alone. He'd done it in as little as 14 hours. He'd slept in every hotel on Mex 1. He'd eaten at every restaurant. He'd driven at night. (The cardinal rule of Baja is do NOT drive at night.) He'd hit horses and cattle. He'd swerved around dogs and herds of goats. He'd been sideswiped by drunk truck drivers. He'd run out of gas. I felt reassured...

The drive is an odd combination of serenity and stress. Mex 1 keeps drivers on their toes as it winds, climbs, and declines. Unexpected speed bumps (or topes) rudely announce small towns otherwise easily missed. And don't ever forget the aforementioned animal traffic.

The desert landscape makes a few interesting transitions. There was little I hadn't already seen. Such as Boojum trees which can be more conveniently viewed at the Living Desert botanical gardens in Southern California.

Our sightseeing stops were the churches at San Ignacio and Santa Rosalia. The latter is a prefab structure designed by Gustave Eiffel. Santa Barbara Church was shipped to Mexico by a French mining company circa 1898.

The most notable part of the drive was the change in weather. We camped the first evening south of San Quintin in Baja California Norte. There the Pacific coast was cold and windy. Our second night was spent in Baja California Sur on the Bahia de Concepcion. The Gulf of California, in turn, was hot and humid..

All beaches in Mexico are public and camping is FREE. We slept in a tent. Due to the lack of American tourists there was plenty of seclusion. Before dusk we'd simply pull off and claim a spot.

The camping supplies were bunjee-tied to the back of the flatbed trailer. To our best estimate, all was lost somewhere on the highway south of Loreto. Oh well, more room for our return cargo...

Dave was determined to reacquire his Volkswagon 1200. A classic '63 pearl white Bug in mint condition. This was his around-town car. His pride and joy had been sitting in a La Paz mechanic's shop for well over two years. The repairs and bill were perpetually delayed. This time he was not leaving Mexico without it, whether the car was drivable or had to be towed.

Our arrival in La Paz was unannounced. It's a rare opportunity for an international landlord to drop-in on his renters. The husband and wife had just celebrated a birthday/christening for their younger child. The clean up was a work in progress. We pitched in.

I'd pictured a hacienda. Most Mexican houses are simple cinder block affairs. Dave's pad was no exception. Over the years his caretaker graduated university, got married, and had children. Slowly Dave's furniture and things were replaced. He'd become a guest in his own home. Our surprise visit meant the spare bedroom was still a cluttered kid's room and nursery. Somehow I felt we were imposing.

We ended up sharing the back porch with the pets: an ancient, dusty dog and hopelessly confined sea turtle. We put our mats down and slept. The porch was far more comfortable at night. Uninsulated cement block houses are solar heat banks with no circulation. My only real complaint was our loss of the tent. It'd have been nice to have some protection from the flies who switched attention from the garbage cans to us each night.

My days in La Paz were spent recovering from the drive. Dave ran back and forth to the immigration office several times--never with the right form, never filled out the right way. I did a little sightseeing. Late in the evenings after the crowds and heat died down we'd walk for miles along the ocean avenue (or malecon).

From La Paz, we made a loop south. Three major towns make up the very south of Baja: Todos Santos, San Jose del Cabo, and Cabos San Lucas. The Los Cabos area is a popular resort destination along the lines of Acapulco or Cancun. You might forget you're in Mexico.

Not so in Todos Santos. This artist colony is on the Pacific coast side of Baja. It's just south of the Tropic of Cancer. Yet the west side of Baja remains breezy and cool all the way to Cabo.

South of Todos Santos is Punta Lobos. Small fishing boats (or pangas) dot its sandy beach. I was surprised to see an old camper van like my Mystery Machine sitting on the beach. It had Colorado plates and the slogan "OPEN ROAD" plastered on all four sides. The van was pretty well stripped and rusted out. I peaked inside. Fresh water and animal food. Maybe the fisherman use it as a locker?

We continued south. A dirt road led to a secluded beach, which I believe was Los Cerritos. We set up camp. The next morning two separate groups of Americans drove past our camp. Only one stopped to chat. A surfing couple looking for good waves.

Things warm up in Cabo San Lucas; both literally and figuratively. Here the Pacific Ocean meets the Gulf of California. The water and air temps rise considerably. So does the cost. Expensive megaresorts cater to college students and sport fishermen alike. In fact, many locals call it "Caro" San Lucas (meaning expensive).

"Caro" is small. Five minutes walk from the marina and downtown, we found a hotel in the $40-50 range. It had parking and put us close to sites like the museum and Lover's Beach. Closer than many of the resorts along the Playa Medano.

We spent a few days in Cabo San Lucas. It's a resort town; aside from water recreation there isn't much sightseeing. As a first day tourist I was content with the Museo del Cabo, a sunset stroll on Playa Solmar, and a walk through downtown.

On day two we hiked to Lover's Beach. Why pay ten dollars for a boat ride? Just make sure to time the tides correctly!

After a few laps around the cove I felt compelled to swim into the bay. Dozens of watercraft whiz by on their way to Land's End.

I was approached by several Americans on rented Waverunners. They wondered what I was doing so far out. Did I need help?

The Mexican captains of the tourist boats warned me I was in danger. I should go back. "Are you crazy?" they'd demand. "Loco?" I'd answer quizzically, my head bobbing up and down in the sea. "Un poquito," a wry zinger I delivered holding my hand above my head with the thumb and index finger spaced a few inches apart in measurement.

To add insult to injury I'd turn to the gringos on board and excitedly ask, "Hey did you see the humpback whale?" "NO! Where??" they'd shout while standing up to crowd over to my side of the boat. Then--with perfect form--I'd somersault head first into the water while pulling down my swimsuit to moon captain and crew.

I hadn't employed this bit since college. A bit rusty at first, I got plenty of practice. I must have been approached by half a dozen boats. By the second or third, I'd innovated a new twist.

On the way back up I'd take in a gulp of water. Head tilted back, I emerged from the water clearing my "blowhole" withal hearty spray like a true cetacean.

It received big laughs. One boat of elderly ladies even clapped in ovation. The capitans made quick exits.

I swam around the tip of the Baja Peninsula until I was well past "El Arco". Having gotten a good view of both The Arch and the actual Land's End rock, I swam back to Lover's Beach. But not quick enough to avoid a sunburned back, arms, and legs.

To get my mind of the burn, that night we took a long walk. From Cabo's marina and downtown through the modern galleria mall of Puerto Paraiso. Then along Medano Beach past all the resorts and turning around, back into town along Mex 1.

We left Cabo San Lucas the next morning. Driving east out of Cabo through "the corridor" along Mex 1, there is a Walmart, Sam's Club, and Costco. We stopped at the latter to restock our cooler. The only one difference between US Costco and the Mexican? Free samples of Tequila shots, I kid you not!

Twenty miles east is San Jose del Cabo, the other city in Cabo. Collectively it and San Lucas are referred to as Los Cabos. San Jose has the airport but remains less crowded.

San Jose's town square and cathedral are walking distance from the resorts. Yet it and the nearby art district retain old Mexico charm. I visited the Paleontology Museum but being Sunday it was closed.

We drove to Puerto Los Cabos and estuary. A development scheme is underway. From the diorama I saw it's very similar to Naples, Florida. Homes on dredged isles with private yacht sloops.

North of San Jose we got off Mex 1. A dirt road passes through Palo Escopeta and spits you out on the Sea of Cortez. We turned north and looked for dirt roads leading to sandy beaches.

After a couple prospects we settled on one. The sun was setting and we made camp. Still having several days to kill before returning to La Paz we stayed there two nights.

We spent few days on the Sea of Cortez around Cabo Pulmo National Park. Then returned to La Paz. The car and immigration paperwork wouldn't be ready for days. It was hot. Too hot to do anything productive.

I distracted myself playing an old computer game: Caesar IV. In the heat of midday we saw matinees at the air conditioned movie theater. By ten at night it was cool enough to walk the malecon.

We test drove the Volkswagon every other day. The repairs were never right. Dave finally got his resident card. Between the heat, screaming kids in the house, and general inconvenience of being on someone else's schedule, life in Mexico was really wearing me down.

A few more days of wrangling with the car went by. Dave finally decided to leave it (and the trailer) in Mexico. He'd come back next month and try again.

We left La Paz and headed north. Initially, the plan was to camp our way home. Without a trailer in tow we made good time. Reaching Guerrero Negro by evening we had dinner at a roadside restaurant.

Guerrero Negro marks the border between Baja California Sur and Baja California Norte. We were also back on the Pacific side. Once again the nights were cold. Too cold.

We decided to break the cardinal rule of Mex 1. We drove at night. In fact, we drove all night. We crossed the Mexico-US border on a busy Monday morning.

May is NOT the month to travel Baja. Though I imagine it'd be a nice winter escape from the US. A self-contained RV or truck camper would be the way to do it. Pulling off the road to an unspoiled, deserted, and idyllic beach is the main attraction of driving Baja but it's also the greatest inconvenience.

California State Railroad Museum

2010-05-02T19:37:00.000-07:00

All aboard!

Next stop, the California State Railroad Museum.

This Sacramento museum is fun for the whole family.

The Transcontinental Railroad is detailed in several exhibits.

Culminating with it's completion at Promontory Point.

The Transcontinental Railroad was a phenomenal undertaking.

Rich in history and ushering the Modern Era.

Visitors can explore several relics from the golden age of rail.

L.A. to Chicago in 39.5 hours...

In comfort and style...

Specialized cars transported mail until 1977.

Hard to imagine a more efficient means.

Mail is now transported by truck and airplane.

A classic steam engine.

Upstairs focuses on President Lincoln's contribution to the RR.

Lincoln was an enthusiastic proponent of a Transcontinental Railroad.

He signed legislation authorizing loans and subsidies for it's construction.

The exhibit ends with the Walt Whitman poem "O Captain! My Captain!"

Old Town Sacramento

2010-05-02T18:54:00.000-07:00

I strolled from the California State Capitol to Old Town Sacramento.

Here, Tower Bridge crosses the Sacramento River.

Linking Sacramento and Yolo counties.

I got to see the bridge raise and lower.

For a historic tall ship.

The sun set.

I explored the Delta King.

This permanently moored vessel is a floating hotel.

And restaurant.

The Delta King is a great spot to enjoy Tower Bridge at sunset.

Old Town Sacramento has a bit of nightlife.

Mainly tourist souvenir shops.

Sun Protection

2010-04-26T16:14:00.001-07:00

I spent yesterday hiking at Red Rock Canyon.

The Burea of Land Management operates this National Conservation Area just outside Las Vegas.

The Nevada sun was intense.

I had on a wide-brimmed hat and 50 SPF sunblock.

As always, sweat quickly began to sting my eyes. I also worried about the back of my neck and exposed skin.

I spent this morning doing some online research. I had a heads-up (no pun intended). Back in February, I was at the San Diego Zoo.

I saw a women wearing a hat with a large flap over the back of her neck.

She told me to look up Sunday Afternoons. A quick search brought up a number of retailers. I quickly navigated to the brand site:

http://www.sundayafternoons.com/store/adventure-hats.html

I ordered an Adventure Hat in black for $36 + shipping. It's not as stylish as the big black cowboy hat I've always wanted, but more practical.

In March, I was hiking at Anzo-Borrego State Park.

I saw an older couple wearing complete face protection!

http://www.coolibar.com/01008.html

I found the above Face Shield by Coolibar. The face shield was back ordered; so I kept searching.

http://www.buffwear.com/

I came up with Neck Buffs.

http://www.buyabuff.com/How_to_wear.htm

The idea is to cover your neck with something lightweight and versatile. Neck Buffs can also be pulled up over the ears and nose for extra protection.

I bought two solid black UV Buffs for $23 each + shipping from Planet Buff:

http://www.planetbuff.com/UV-Buff/c15/p810/Black-UV/product_info.html

http://www.planetbuff.com/Features,-Benefits-%26-Uses/c4/p44/UV-Buff-Features,-Benefits-and-Uses/pages.html

Before leaving California, I used a $10 credit at Costco to get these gloves.

So by April--for under $100--I've adequately increased my sun protection for a summer outdoors.

Let's hope it's better than the homemade Emporer Palpatine prototype I tried out at Joshua Tree.

California State Capitol

2010-04-25T20:02:00.000-07:00

I visited the Governor's Mansion SHP.

Next, I saw the California State Capitol.

The building is in downtown Sacramento.

It has a museum and also conducts public tours.

The surrounding gardens have several war memorials.

Vietnam.

A few liberty bells.

The Civil War.

They were decorating the Christmas Tree.

The rotunda.

Tour introduction.

The California State Assembly room.

The California State Assembly room.

The California State Senate room.

The California State Senate room.

The apse.

The original Governor's Office.

The tour ends with displays on California's 58 counties.

Governor's Mansion State Historic Park

2010-04-24T11:41:00.000-07:00

Sacramento is the California state capitol.

I took a tour of the Governor's Mansion.

The mansion is no longer occupied.

The Reagan family last called it home.

A guided tour overviews both building and governorship of California.

A scale model shows what the original house looked like.

The mansion's last four first ladies:

The dining room accommodated fourteen.

Upstairs bedrooms:

The attic housed a ballroom for 19th century entertaining.

The servants quarters:

The kitchen:

The tour ended here.

The house was occupied for over 90 years.

Governor's Mansion State Historic Park in Sacramento is well worth your visit.

Black Friday

2010-04-24T11:22:00.000-07:00

I left Folsom.

And headed into Sacramento.

This was the week of Thanksgiving 2009.

I stopped at Best Buy in anticipation of Black Friday.

I took a look at the Nokia Booklet 3G.

I later bought this netbook in southern California.

It was returned after a few weeks. You can read my unfavorable review here:

http://yearincalifornia.blogspot.com/2010/01/nokia-booklet-3g-reviewed.html

iPads & Idleness

2010-04-15T09:13:00.000-07:00

I've spent an extra week in Palm Springs.

Kudos to Mountain View Tire in Palm Desert.

They put free tires on the Mystery Machine, while I hung-out across the street at Best Buy.

I played around with the iPad.

As with the iPhone, it has set a new standard.

I think iPad's main competitor is the iPhone 3G.

Besides better screen and battery life what's the difference?

After a few weeks in one place I get bored and anxious.

Wish I learned to play a wind instrument as a kid, or picked up some kind of a hobby...

Instead of eating for entertainment.

Exercise is healthy and productive.

And my art...is my life.

Donations

2010-04-13T10:00:00.000-07:00

Many readers have expressed interest in donating to this blog.

In response, I've added several donate buttons to the sidebar.

Simply click "Donate" to make your contribution to Year in California.

If you have trouble, this short video runs through each step:

If you still have trouble click here.

Mountain View Tire

2010-04-12T19:22:00.000-07:00

Today I got a phone call...

It was the owner of
Mountain View Tire.

A Goodyear franchise with 30 locations in Southern California.

I had been to their branch in Palm Desert last week. I had some work done to the Mystery Machine. A new bushing on the right front end. As well as new front brakes.

I actually had to go back on Saturday. One of the new brake pads was a little loose and needed readjusting. I wasn't annoyed, just relieved it was something easily diagnosed and simple to fix.

But the owner, Eddie, was concerned about something else...

Last year a friend and I went to Death Valley. I parked the camper van at 24 Hour Fitness for the weekend. When we got back, I had a flat tire! I used a couple fix-a-flat spray cans and limped down Bellflower Blvd. to Mountain View Tire.

Long story short, after a week in the shop I ended up with 4 new tires + a full size spare. (As well as four new struts). Unbeknown to me, I was sold trailer tires by the Long Beach branch. I drove on them for 12 months, through every county of California (plus a good portion of Oregon & Nevada)!!

A worker at Mountain View in Palm Desert noticed. Eddie was concerned. The tires were safe. But the sidewalls would probably start cracking. I'd not get my money's worth.

Eddie offered to meet me at the Palm Desert branch in a few days. He'd pick up five new all weather tires from the Goodyear Factory in Rancho Cordova. Then have them put on the Mystery Machine at no charge!

Folsom Prison Museum

2010-04-12T16:37:00.000-07:00

I went to jail.

Of my own volition.

Folsom State Prison is famous.

The live album At Folsom Prison was recorded here by Johnny Cash.

His 1968 concerts for prisoners helped ease their "Folsom Prison Blues".

As well as turn Cash's career around after years of drug abuse.

Their hoots and hollers only add to the character of this bestselling album.

Folsom Prison Blues (Live) - J...

The Folsom Prison Museum contains some memorabilia.

A short video provides a glimpse into life at "Old Folsom".

"...That lonesome whistle...

Blow my blues away."

Folsom Powerhouse SHP

2010-04-12T16:14:00.000-07:00

I left the Folsom History Museum.

I took a short walk down the hill to the American River.

I reached Folsom Powerhouse State Historic Park.

The park preserves and interprets this turn of the century hydroelectric plant.

The powerhouse presided over a period of modernization in Sacramento Valley.

Rivers such as the American were tamed.

I headed back to the Mystery Machine.

Next stop: prison.

Folsom History Museum

2010-04-12T15:36:00.000-07:00

I left Auburn.

The rain cleared as I descended the foothills of the Sierra Nevada Mountains.

I crossed into Sacramento County and the city of Folsom.

Folsom has a historic downtown with several things to see.

The Folsom History Museum is a good place to start.

Starting with the Maidu, several ethnic groups have thrived in California.

The Pony Express exhibit is one of the most complete I've seen.

This saddlebag is where mail was placed.

Agricultural exhibits.

Christmas dioramas.

Auburn

2010-04-12T15:13:00.000-07:00

I left Marshall Gold Discovery SHP.

I crossed into Placer County and the town of Auburn.

My Dorling Kindersley Eyewitness Guidebook told of a free Gold Museum.

However the Mountain Mandarin Festival was charging an entrance fee.

Skipped it.

Headed for Folsom...

Marshall Gold Discovery State Historic Park

2010-04-12T14:46:00.000-07:00

Seasonal closure is a bitch.

I hugged the California coast all summer long.

I hit Crater Lake National Park, Oregon hours before snow closed its roads.

The trade-off was driving Historic Rt. 49 through the central Sierras in late fall.

While the foliage was pretty, some "Gold Trail" destinations were closed.

Continuing north on Hwy 49 I reached Coloma, CA.

James W. Marshall discovered gold in 1848 on the South Fork of the American River.

Marshall Gold Discovery State Historic Park preserves, recreates, and interprets Sutter's Mill.

As well as other historic buildings that sprang up in boom town Coloma.

Another Miwok village.

An interpretive trail leads through the park.

To a memorial.

James Marshall (as well as John Sutter) died penniless.

Their discovery set off the California Gold Rush.

The greatest mass emigration in the Western Hemisphere.

Soon their claims were jumped by a plethora of fortune seekers.

Marshall should have kept it a secret.

Continued to work Sutter's Mill.

Buy small rich parcels of land.

Secure water rights up and down the American River.

Maybe start a commercial services and industrial supplies company ala Wells Fargo.

Amador County Museum

2010-04-07T17:53:00.000-07:00

I continued north on Hwy 49.

I drove clear across three counties!

Visiting three county museums...

I hit the town of Jackson in Amador County.

Jackson - June Carter Cash, Jo...

But the Amador County Museum was closed for restorations...

Shoulda called ahead!

I went back to the Mystery Machine and planned my next move.

I didn't have much luck the next morning.

The El Dorado County Museum was also closed.

These smaller museums tend to be closed seasonally.

Calaveras County Museum

2010-04-07T17:29:00.000-07:00

I left Columbia State Historic Park.

I drove north on historic Hwy 49 through Tuolumne County.

Then crossed into Calaveras County.

The county seat is San Andreas.

My only stop was the Calaveras County Museum.

A great place to learn about outlaw Black Bart.

Bart robbed many Wells Fargo stagecoaches before being caught.

Upstairs are dioramas, including a bark Miwok house.

It's fun just wandering around...

Columbia State Historic Park (3)

2010-04-06T20:23:00.000-07:00

Saloons and spittoons.

Chicken coops.

The tour rapped up.

There's only so much a person can take!

We went over to the museum.

And underneath it too, LOL!

I walked over to the old brick schoolhouse.

Leaving Tuolumne County, I headed north into Calaveras County.

Historic Hwy 49 is a pretty drive through rolling hills.

Full of rich local history and family fun.

Columbia State Historic Park (2)

2010-04-06T20:06:00.000-07:00

I took a ranger led tour at Columbia State Historic Park.

The park preserves several Gold Rush era buildings.

Many are privately owned and run as tourist shops.

Some are operated by the parks dept.

A few like the Tibbits House were actually moved from other locations.

Citizen No. 1--people-pulled & people-powered fire engine!

Next stop the Wilson Store.

I've always found industrial age commerce fascinating.

Apparently fire was a serious problem in boom shanty towns.

Columbia State Historic Park (1)

2010-04-06T19:45:00.000-07:00

Most Californians think their state has no seasons.

Especially lacking fall foliage.

It's there. Not on the coast or deserts though...

Columbia State Historic Park interprets
the California Gold Rush.

It provides a living glimpse into the past.

When the central Sierra Nevada Mountains bustled with mining and prospectors.

Businesses like Wells Fargo soon followed.

That's where the really money was made:

Tuolumne County Museum

2010-04-06T19:18:00.001-07:00

I finished the Mist Trail at dusk.

Yosemite Valley was getting it's first winter snow.

A few inches were just starting to stick. (I had no chains.)

I hightailed it out of Yosemite National Park.

The next morning I hit the Tuolumne County Museum.

This history center details the Gold Rush in the Sierras.

The museum is located in the county seat: Sonora.

This building used to be the Tuolumne County Jail.

Derelict, it was declared a public nuisance and converted to a museum.

Mystery Machine Maintenance

2010-03-31T19:39:00.000-07:00

I took the Mystery Machine in for repairs.

The past week there's been a clunk when braking.

It was coming from the right front end.

It's been 2000 miles since my last oil change. The oil was dirty and low.

I ended up getting a new bushing on the right front end.

New front break pads and rotor resurfacing.

The brakes were done two years ago at Firestone. They only lasted 16,000 miles...

While the repairs were getting done I worked out, showered, and shaved.

Did serious research at Best Buy (the latest laptops and PC games).

Ogled the super thin LED TVs.

Ahhhh...3D TV. Check out the Coral Reef demo at your local BB!

Banks started charging monthly service fees.

I converted my account. Now I'm charged only $3.5o a month. Our tax bailout at work!

The Mystery Machine still wasn't done.

So I went over to the mall.

I did some modified push-ups. Then an even lazier workout: Electric Muscle Stimulation.

I had one of these for my lower back.

Hey Easter Bunny, up here!

I wonder what the age limit is?

Is it spring break? People watching was excellent...

Running train? Hmmmmm...Great idea!

The Mystery Machine was done.

I peeled myself away from the whale tail in front of Victoria's Secret.

This American Life

2010-03-30T10:07:00.000-07:00

I subscribe to a few National Public Radio podcasts through iTunes.

One of my favorite is
This American Life.

I usually listen to NPR on my iPhone, while I'm in the shower or working out.

I have the NPR app. But it's easier to subscribe and download the podcasts through iTunes.

Then sync the podcasts with my iPhone. And listen to them on speakerphone.

This week's podcast is #403 NUMMI.

http://www.thisamericanlife.org/radio-archives/episode/403/nummi

NUMMI is the best NPR podcast I've heard since summer.

Back when This American Life covered mortgage backed securities and the 2008 financial crash in "The Giant Pool of Money".

http://www.thisamericanlife.org/radio-archives/episode/355/The-Giant-Pool-of-Money

You'll have to pay $0.99 for the archived podcast. But this week's NUMMI is still free for download.

Please listen to it. You'll gain a new perspective on the American & Japanese auto industries.

Mist Trail (8)

2010-03-24T15:07:00.000-07:00

The storm clouds moved in.

Snow was supposed to hit Yosemite National Park in the late afternoon.

I gambled taking the Mist Trail all the way to Nevada Falls.

It was worthwhile.

A seldom seen perspective.

A third bridge over the Merced.

The top of Nevada Falls.

No guardrails.

Nothing to obstruct the majesty of nature.

Looking left:

Looking right:

Looking behind:

The wind was powerful...

Blowing the mist back up the cliff!

I headed back down to Vernal Falls.

To quote Sol Rosenberg:
"It makes me very scary! I get very very ah scared..."

Are you paying attention?

One last look at Vernal Falls.

Yosemite National Park -- The Mist Trail.

Mist Trail (7)

2010-03-24T14:52:00.001-07:00

I crossed the second bridge over the Merced River.

I could see Nevada Falls in the distance.

As I continued up in elevation it got very windy and cold.

The trees offered some protection.

Nevada Falls looked so close but yet so far.

Listening to too much NPR messes with your head.

Smaller steps up the side of Nevada Falls.

I think it's easier to walk on tumbled rocks.

Than the huge steps earlier on the Mist Trail.

Mist Trail (6)

2010-03-24T14:40:00.000-07:00

The Mist Trail became hard to follow.

The majority turn back after reaching the top of Vernal Falls.

Few go on to Nevada Falls.

I went back to the water and followed the Merced.

The trail was hard to miss.

I was getting tired.

Mist Trail (5)

2010-03-24T14:26:00.000-07:00

After much climbing, I reached the top of Vernal Falls.

Before cascading off the cliff the water gathers at Emerald Pool.

It's about a mile from here to the top of Nevada Falls.

Vacationers used to swim in Emerald Pool.

It's closed for safety reasons and habitat restoration.

The rocks are so finely polished they glare intensely.

The majority turn back at the top of Vernal Falls.

The Mist Trail became hard to follow.

Mist Trail (4)

2010-03-24T14:03:00.000-07:00

The Mist Trail is known for being wet.

The rocks are slick towards the top of Vernal Falls.

But the spray didn't soak me at all.

Good thing given my track record with iPhones and Sierra waterfalls...

This was the scariest part of the hike.

The guardrails keep things pretty safe.

But it's still pretty scary.

Mist Trail (3)

2010-03-24T13:27:00.000-07:00

Steep

Stairs

And

Steps.

Rocky Balboa ain't got shit on me!

I saw this in a movie:

When I see steps like this, I hear that Rocky theme in my head.

Getting strong now...

Getting irksome...

What's with all the steps? A Shaolin Monastery?

I began to expect a Kung Fu master might be up top.

Probably delirious.

Shouldn't have gotten overzealous!

Mist Trail (2)

2010-03-22T17:51:00.000-07:00

The leisurely stroll was over.

I crossed the Merced River.

From here on, the Mist Trail becomes a real hike.

Distances are deceiving. Worry more about elevation gain...

Here, it's also possible to connect with the Glacier Point trail.

Vernal Falls comes into view as the trail steepens.

Steps are hewn into the rock.

The climb is worthwhile.

Health-Who-Cares?

2010-03-22T13:00:00.001-07:00

I woke up this morning in my van.

In bed, I checked Facebook on my iPhone, as I usually do.

There were a few posts lamenting the healthcare bill.

I got up and turned on the radio.

NPR filled me in on the latest realpolitik.

Occasionally I'm compelled to fire off an op-ed piece:

Health-Who-Cares

Several million poor and working class Americans will soon gain health insurance.

Those with insurance will have (a bit more) coverage and protection. They won't be denied coverage for preexisting conditions; nor dropped from their policy when sick or injured.

Steps will be taken to control premium hikes and skyrocketing costs. This alone threatens to make healthcare unaffordable. If nothing is done, in a decade many working class Americans will be priced out of healthcare!

This IS progress. Some may hate the idea of socialized medicine. But these changes are FAR from a one-payer, universal healthcare system. (Which by the way works well in every other industrialized nation AND many third world countries.)

Taxes have to go somewhere. Would you rather dole it out to other countries, unnecessary wars, and govt. contractors? Or fix things that need attention in low and middle class America?

This bill started from a centrist platform. Far too many concessions have been made to the conservatives and none voted for it anyway.

We have not created federal govt. (mandatory tax-based nor optional premium-based) health insurance; nor opened Medicare to any working person or student.

Yet some progress is better than none and long overdue!

Donation Unsuccessful :-(

2010-03-12T23:38:00.000-08:00

Try Again...

1. Enter an obscene amount of money

2. Enter an offensive amount of money
(This step is optional)

3. Click "Update Total"
(That's the tricky part)

It should look like this

4. Click "Continue"

5. Enter your credit card info

6. Click "Review Donation and Continue"

*********************************

Have you ever bought anything on eBay?
Chances are you have a PayPal account:

1. "Log In" with your email and password

2. Click the "Send Money" tab

3. To "tmthymllgn@yahoo.com"
&

4. Enter an Amount

5. Click "Personal" and choose "Gift" or "Living Expense"

6. Click "Continue"

*If your PayPal account is up to date, your done!*
(If not you'll need to update your checking/debit account on file.)

Donation Successful!

2010-03-12T22:36:00.000-08:00

Thanks for contributing...

Sucka!

Mist Trail (1)

2010-03-03T10:36:00.000-08:00

I had trouble finding the Mist Trail.

It starts at the end of Yosemite Valley in Happy Isles.

The trail climbs past Vernal Falls to the cliffs above Nevada Falls.

I finally reached the trailhead replete with bear boxes.

I followed the path past Happy Isles Nature Center.

I planned my route.

There is a seismograph at the trailhead.

I passed a sign on talus fauna and another warning about bears.

This part of the Mist Trail is paved...

but steep.

With awesome views of the surrounding mountains shorn by glaciers.

The trail becomes rugged after this bridge.

Many turn back with only this glimpse of Vernal Fall.

Yosemite Valley

2010-03-03T09:54:00.000-08:00

I left Hetch Hetchy Reservoir.

I jumped on Rt. 120.

Destination Yosemite Valley.

I stopped at Merced Grove & Tuolumne Grove.

Each has a loop trail through giant Sequoia groves.

I turned back after a short jog down the trail to Tuolumne Grove.

I stopped again at Half Dome View.

A model and kiosks illustrate the geology of Half Dome.

I pressed on into Yosemite Valley.

The roads were empty compared to my visit in June.

I made a short excursion to Bridalveil Fall.

Next stop, the Mist Trail.

Hetch Hetchy Reservoir (7)

2010-03-01T17:01:00.000-08:00

Three black bear encounters.

And this was only my first hike of the day.

I headed back to the camper van.

A snow storm hit Yosemite Park that evening.

I wanted to get to Yosemite Valley and the Mist Trail.

The sun came out.

It was a nice hike back.

The trail passes through this tunnel before the dam.

I no longer need the stick, so I tossed it off O'Shaughnessy Dam.

I headed for Yosemite Valley.

Hetch Hetchy Reservoir (6)

2010-03-01T15:58:00.000-08:00

I turned back at Wapama Falls.

The black bear was waiting for me.

And I knew it.

I had my stick ready.

I sensed the bear was close.

I came around a blind turn. A few feet away in the middle of the trail was the black bear.

The above video is actually the third (last) encounter. I had my iPhone at the ready for the second "suprise attack". But I mustn't have hit the record button.

I was too busy swinging my stick around like Gandalf. I smashed that stick until there was nothing left.

I managed to scare the bear into the brush. He cut up the slope and tried to take the high ground.

I took off down the trail. I followed a wide curve up the embankment and arrived first.

I shouted a quick warning to a couple. They took off in a hurry.

I continued down the trail, warning a few more people. I met a hiker who wanted to see the black bear.

We went back to look but the bear was gone.

Hetch Hetchy Reservoir (5)

2010-03-01T14:48:00.000-08:00

I left the black bear behind.

I'd deal with him twice more on the return.

Even in late November Wapama Falls was flowing.

This is the water that feeds Hetch Hetchy Reservoir.

And the people of San Francisco.

Snow melt from the high Sierras.

Hetch Hetchy Reservoir (4)

2010-02-17T10:41:00.000-08:00

This hike started to pay-off.

The natural beauty of the Hetch Hetchy Valley emerged.

It really does mirror Yosemite Valley...

And when I say the "natural beauty" emerged...

I really mean it! [Black Bear @ 3:53]

Dam be damned... Hetch Hetchy is still wild, LOL!

Hetch Hetchy Reservoir (3)

2010-02-17T10:02:00.000-08:00

I took a walk across O'Shaughnessy Dam.

Historical kiosks tell the story of Hetch Hetchy Valley.

The Hetch Hetchy Reservoir was (and still remains) controversial.

How do we balance preservation & conservation
of our wilderness with public use & consumption?

I explored the north side of Hetch Hetchy Reservoir.

A tunnel at the end of the dam leads to a trail.

There are two waterfalls: Tucculala Falls & Wapama Falls.

Tucculala was dry.

Water levels are lowest in summer and fall.

Hetch Hetchy Reservoir (2)

2010-02-17T09:35:00.000-08:00

Hetch Hetchy Valley rivaled the beauty of Yosemite Valley.

John Muir intentionally drew the boundaries of Yosemite National Park to include Hetch Hetchy.

After the 1906 earthquake, San Francisco maneuvered to dam the Tuolumne River and flood Hetch Hetchy Valley.

Muir, co-founder of the Sierra Club, fought valiantly but lost.

O'Shaughnessy Dam was completed in 1923.

It provides water and electricity to 2.5 million people.

Hetch Hetchy Reservoir (1)

2010-02-17T08:28:00.000-08:00

Historic Rt. 49 parallels the Sierras.

It winds through rolling countryside.

I took Rt. 49 south, to Rt. 11o.

I crossed the Don Pedro Reservoir.

I turned on Big Oak Flat Road.

I reached the Tuolumne River.

My destination: Yosemite National Park.

Calaveras Big Trees State Park

2010-02-16T16:17:00.000-08:00

The mountain pass on Rt. 4 was closed.

I took Rt. 88 across the Sierras.

Along Rt. 4 in the foothills is
Calaveras Big Trees State Park.

I took the loop trail.

The North Grove has several interesting features.

A walk through Giant Sequoia is always a treat.

A giant sequoia tree standing tall after thousands of years.

The Mammoth Tree was not so lucky.

It was systematically disassembled

and shipped to New York for display.

There's nothing like an afternoon stroll in a Sequoia Grove...

Indian Grinding Rock SHP

2010-02-16T10:12:00.000-08:00

I left Black Chasm.

I continued south on Hwy 88.

Next stop:
Indian Grinding Rock State Historic Park.

The Native American roundhouse is a visitor center and museum.

The tribe in this area is known as the Miwok.

The exhibit diligently traces Miwok history during the period of white settlement.

The Miwok built shelters and granaries out of branches and bark.

The discovery of Yosemite by white settlers was disastrous for the Miwok.

Another element to the park are Native American petroglyphs.

A short stroll outside reveals a Miwok Village.

And, the actual grinding rock.

Black Chasm

2010-02-16T08:51:00.000-08:00

I got back on Rt. 88.

I continued down the Sierra Nevada Mountains.

I reached the foothills and Volcano, CA.

Black Chasm National Natural Landmark is one of several private caverns in Gold Country open for guided tours.

It was the end of the season.

I had a private tour of the caves.

Black Chasm is rather deep.

It has some of the best formations I've seen.

Stalagmites (not shown) rise from the floor like dust "mites".

Stalactites cling "tight" to the ceiling.

Black Chasm has one of the largest displays of helictite crystals.

Helictite crystals form as water is pushed through rock pores.

The helictite crystal formations seem to defy gravity.

A scene from The Matrix III was shot here.

Black Chasm National Natural Landmark:

Salt Springs Reservoir

2010-02-03T09:25:00.000-08:00

The GPS got me lost.

The destination was Calaveras Big Trees State Park.

Garmin Nuvi took me off the highway.

A winding road led me through burning forest.

I think it was some kind of controlled burn.

The road got rough...

I descended into a ravine...

The GPS kept recalculating.

Whatever...

I crossed a single lane bridge.

I passed over a working flume.

Flumes direct water over and through the mountains to communities.

I came to a camping area. The road became dirt.

I passed over a fork of the Mokelumne River.

I arrived at the Salt Springs Reservoir.

Several dams dot the Sierra Nevada Mountains.

They capture melting snow-pack.

These dams regulate water flow to farms in the Central Valley.

A nice view of the Mokelumne Valley and PG&E hydroelectric plant.

I decided to back-track to Highway 88.

Salt Springs Reservoir was an unexpected but pleasant detour.

Carson Pass

2010-02-02T17:07:00.000-08:00

I crossed the Nevada state-line in South Lake Tahoe.

I was back in California.

My next hurdle was the Sierra Nevada Mountains.

A major winter snowstorm was coming. A few of the mountain passes were already closed.

I continued south on Rt. 89 to Grover Hot Springs State Park.

Grover Hot Springs has geothermal pools open to the public for wading.

A road crew informed me the pass on Rt. 4 was closed.

I doubled-back on Rt. 89. I reached Rt. 88 and headed west over the Sierras.

The grade to the Kit Carson Pass was steep.

Luckily, the Carson Pass was clear. Just a little ice on the road.

I entered the El Dorado National Forest.

The GPS started to let me down. It didn't label a reservoir.

I passed through some ice and slush, reaching Kirkwood Meadows.